I found that as it was harder to stretch the rubber over the adaptor, it was best to do that first. So take your slice of inner tube stretch it over the adaptor. Then you have to connect the lens and the adaptor. Then cut your bicycle inner tube/ black vinyl etc to a slightly longer length (you need to overlap on the lens and on the adapter, but remember that you have to include the length of the adapter in the overall lens length.) Obviously, unlike a normal lens, you will be able to move your lens back and forwards, so it doesn’t need to be inch perfect, just more or less in the right position. This is where the lens needs to be relative to the camera, so this distance is going to be the finished length of your lens. So, set your slr to manual focus, take the lens off and hold the lens you’re going to use in front of the camera, moving it back and forwards slightly until you get a focused image. Mine is 75mm.įirst of all, you have to make sure that your lens is capable of focusing, which means making sure that you have it the right distance away from the film in your camera. (I haven’t tried using Diana or Holga lenses but you could give that a go.) A long focal length is better too, especially if you want to try the miniature world stuff, I’ve heard that it has to be longer than 50mm. So for our 35mm slr, a medium format lens would be perfect or you can do what I did and buy a cheap enlarger lens from ebay. A larger format lens projects a larger image, so you can move it about and still cover your whole negative. As you tilt and wiggle the lens about some of the image will fall outside the negative and some of the negative with be blank. This is because a 35mm lens projects an image exactly the same size as a 35mm negative. For this to work properly the lens should be for a larger format than the camera you’re going to use. An old slr is ideal…and it needs to be able to focus manually, because you’re not building an autofocus lens!!! I’m using my Minolta Dynax 5, but any manual focus SLR will do just as well.Ģ) Some sort of lens. You’re going to need to able to see exactly what the lens sees, so you can see what’s in focus and what isn’t. It’s easy, honest!įirst things first – what do you need to build your own lens?ġ) A camera body with TTL (through the lens) viewing. If you want some crazy tilt to your photography you have two choices – spend a fortune on an expensive professional lens or build your own. This review demonstrates nicely how TiltShift can be used.Ī clickable link to the review is on the TiltShift support site.A Beginner's Guide to Tilt Shift Photography Part 2 20 96 Share Tweet Please have a look at a video review by Vu Bui, a photographer and cinematographer from Southern California. The resulting image can be saved in high resolution.īoth portrait and landscape mode are supported. Practice with dozens of images that are included or use the camera and photo roll. The size and orientation of the focus can be adjustedīy the multi-touch gestures pinch in, pinch outĪnd rotation of two fingers around a common center. You can even choose a shaped aperture (hexagon, heart, dollar sign, etc.) if you like. Increase color saturation, contrast or brightness to increase the toy model look.Ĭreate a nice bokeh effect with the lens blur filter in night scene photos.īlooming strength and threshold are adjustable. This application simulates a tilt-shift lens that tricks your mind into viewing a photo as a miniature scene like a model railroad for example.įocus on a linear or elliptical region in the image with visual guides and interactively adjust the amount of blur for maximum effect. Transform a scene into a miniature world.
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